Loved for their conviviality, unpretentious ambience and dedication to small-scale producers, the capital’s traditional enoteche are a dying breed. Here are five keeping the flame alive
Brimming with Old Masters and ancient sculptures, Europe’s ‘most beautiful small museum’ showcases the awe-inspiring collection of a 17th-century cardinal
Descend into a sacred subterranean realm where echoes of the ancient past and early Christianity still linger
See the Eternal City from an entirely new and (bar the odd rapid) more relaxing angle by rafting, kayaking or rowing along the Tiber
The art historian seeks out Baroque architecture, rare books — and world-famous pizza bianca
With Zaha Hadid on design, Alain Ducasse in the kitchen and a seemingly limitless budget, what could possibly go wrong?
The best gelato, outdoor cinemas, scenic walks at night — and much more
Next year sees a new train service launch across Italy — La Dolce Vita Orient Express
Key notes | The new hotel from the Leitmotiv group is an arty bolt-hole set back from the teeming tourist crowds
Free film screenings in some of the city’s most beautiful historic locations are one of the true highlights of summer
The woman at the helm of the city’s Michelin-starred Glass Hostaria takes us to her top sights, eateries and bars
Away from the obvious crowd-pullers are a host of watery wonders where you may even find yourself alone . . .
Explore Etruscan necropoli and imposing medieval castles taken over by pirates and Nazis, just under an hour from the capital
The man behind London’s Bocca di Lupo restaurant and Gelupo gelateria shares his go-to places for a scoop or two
From the centro storico and out to the coast, the Eternal City offers a plethora of ways to stay active
The Eternal City’s best restaurants and watering holes, as recommended by you
From stylish decor, the perfect location and fabulous service, to excellent food and drink, luxury toiletries and more, here are your favourite places to stay in the Italian capital
We want to know where and how you relax in our FT Globetrotter cities. Share your favourite spa, beauty/wellness centre or luxury hotel hideaway and your top treatments
Gammarelli in Rome caters to pontiffs and secular tastemakers alike
Leo XIV could rekindle faith in a shrinking US church while embracing the world’s poor
Solemn rites of choosing a pope conceal earthly power struggles in ‘pure Hollywood, cinema-style stuff’
The actor and director siblings share a unique creative language. It began long ago during their childhood in rural Umbria
The air is cooler, the crowds have thinned, the landmarks are beautifully lit up — the Eternal City is at its best once the sun has gone down
‘Presepi’ — intricate and often wildly imaginative dioramas of the birth of Christ — are a highlight of the Italian holiday season. Here’s where to see them at their most magical in the capital
From panettone to tiramisu, many ‘classics’ are in fact recent inventions, as Alberto Grandi has shown
The populist politician on working with Draghi, his hardline stance on immigration — and his conversion to believing in a strong EU
Tired trattorias used to be the order of the day on Piazza Navona — until the lockdown prompted two brothers to reinvent their own as a cooler offering that appeals to the locals
The creative director at one of France’s most venerable fashion houses invites us into her Italian home
The evergreen appeal of this symbol of the Eternal City — and where to see it at its most splendid
From Audrey Hepburn on the Spanish Steps to 007 on the banks of the Tiber, via Nanni Moretti on his Vespa, this scenic route has something for film buffs of all stripes
Every great hotel has its own distinct personality — as amply demonstrated by these six Roman legends. Which one matches the type of traveller you are?
Francis Ford Coppola, Susan Sarandon and Martin Scorsese have all been drawn to this tiny film store
